This almost the last post on the coat Elisabeth, as I called it due to lack of imagination. The last post will be some shots of me wearing the final product. For this I must wait for Matthieu and his camera. First I will explain the coats front bottom edge, than the elastic in the back and I have almost nothing on the collar - cause it made me almost crazy, so I couldn't operate a camera...
First you have to flatten the edge of the front piece - it overlaps a bit with the back revers piece, which was cut shorter - 2 times the width of the front fold - in order to fit in the right way.
Turn it outside out. You sew the bottom piece of the revers with the long edge of the front piece together.
The pieces stay inside out. Then you stitch the side seam, while folding in the right place:
This is how it looks when you turn the right side.
Now the elastic in the back. I saw the technique on Paco Peralts blog. I used it to define the back side if I am wearing the coat without the belt. And even with the belt it shapes the pleats nicely. First I made a tube according to the required measurements - the width of the elastic and the span it has to shorten:
Than I pulled the elastic through and fixed it on both ends:
Than to the collar. It is sewn the usual way and very easy actually. Only my sewing machine couldn't handle the layers of thick fabric... I just flipped out at that point a bit. So there is only this photo:
You stitch the back revers pieces with the back undercollar piece (no picture of that one) together. Then you slip the collar between this and the jacket bodice and sew from the wrong side. The pleats of the collar were hand stitched in place beforehand.
As for attaching the lining check this burdastyle video out.
And now some detail shots of the finished jacket: